So what is the best way
for prototyping a circuit;
You have several options:
Jump to Prototyping wire recommendation.
A solderless
breadboard (or solderless circuit board) has an array of holes on top and
enclosed connections underneath. You can plug any standard sized component into
the breadboard e.g. an IC or solid core wire.
Typically each row is split into sets of five connections that are joined
together underneath and for each connection there is a spring grabber that
grabs whatever wire is pushed into the top.
Usually around the outside edges rows are connected together
and columns
are connected together - these are intended for supplying power to each IC i.e.
a convenient place to get 5V or 0V connections. In the diagram below the left
column has been used to give access to the zero volt connection (green
wires).
So you can use them to quickly make up a circuit by plugging in an IC, LED,
transistor and then routing all the connections using solid core wire (with pvc
sheath).
Note: If you have a small circuit to test or
develop they are ideal as they let you quickly change and add
components.
They are only useful for up to the minute development. Never use them for a permanent circuit
because once your back is turned or its been put to one side a wire will be
knocked out and you'll spend ages trying to find out which one. This problem
is made worse the bigger the solderless breadboard and the one shown below is
one of the smallest).
Only use them for testing non critical
circuits - they are ideal for digital circuitry but not so good for
analogue as you have no control over the ground routing path, stray capacitance
etc. and never use them for RF.
As its name
suggests stripboard is a board made up of strips - strips of copper track with
pre-drilled holes. To make up circuits you solder components into the
stripboard and use a track cutter to cut tracks between components and make
connections by soldering components e.g. resistors or wire links between
tracks.
If you are careful you can often design a simple curcuit without using too many
wire links but if you are designing a bus based system (e.g. 8 bit bus) you
quickly need to add many wires.
If you are using a processor circuit you will need to make many track cuts and
I would suggest using a strip board that has tracks broken into sets of three.
This lets you place components and then wire up using prototype wire. Some
boards also have power connections specially for placing ICs e.g. Euroboard -
these don't have the best grounding path but they are useful and work well for
prototypes.
The first
thought is to use the solid core wire that you used on the solderless
breadboard but this is the most difficult wire to use as the PVC sheath has a
low melting point. You quickly find out that if you hold the soldering iron
on the wire too long the pvc sheath melts and exposes the wire underneath.
For prototyping I'd recommend using wire wrap
wire or another wire with a high melting point sheath. The reason is
that during prototyping you will often change the circuit - the wire wrap wire
(Kynar wire is similar) will let you
re-solder it lots of times and will not melt.
The only trouble with it is stripping the wire wrap wire - you can buy a tool
at about $40 but I use ordinary wire cutters to only just cut the sheath and
pull that bit off exposing the wire. OK so sometimes you cut a little too far
and break or weaken the wire but with practice this technique works and once
you have placed the wire you can move it by melting the solder and removing the
wire.
This method gives you a permanent circuit that is reliable and suitable for
one-off development.
However you will soon get tired of it especially if there are lots of wire
connections so the next option is to make a PCB.
Your best option
for making your own pcb is to use a single sided board with Press n peel
technology. This lets you make a PCB using a laserjet printer or photocopy
that prints directly onto the Press n Peel paper.
First you print a reverse image onto the PnP paper.
Then
all you do is iron (using your normal domestic clothes iron) the PnP paper onto
a copper clad board.
Wait a while then peel off the Press n Peel. This leaves the printed
pcb pattern on the copper board ready for etching in the normal way.
Note: You can use this method to easily and
quickly make single sided boards but you still have to use the standard 'nasty'
chemicals'.
The only
difference between this method and the Press n Peel method is that you need a
UV lightbox and UV sensitive copper clad board.
To make the etch resist you expose the board to UV light with a transparency of
the pattern to etch in front of the board. Exposing the board to UV light
chemically changes the exposed areas of the board and you can etch these area
away using chemicals leaving the copper tracks making up the PCB.
For prototyping
a single sided board these methods are fine.
If you create a double sided board,which you will need to do as you create more
complex circuits, then there are no through hole connections. And aligning the
top and bottom etch resist masks is a difficult task.
In a manufactured PCB through holes connect on side of the board to the other
using a plated through hole and these plated through holes appear anywhere you
use a leaded component e.g. an IC. This means you don't have to think how to
reach the other side of the board as you do if you make your own PCB.
Another problem is that you won't have a silk screen (usually white text) to
identify where you place components - this becomes essential for more complex
boards. And if you need to come back to the project at a later stage you
won't remember where all the components are unless you have kept very good
documentation.
Making your own prototyping boards is useful but only for one-off designs and
the best way of doing it is to use Press n Peel for single sided boards.
Note: You should be certain of your design as
it generally takes several iterations to get it right.
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